L'ultimo giorno

May 11, 2009

I feel most Roman every time I come back to my apartment. As I open the heavy wooden door on my busy shopping street, people always peer past me into the long corridor. I know what they are thinking: “She must be Italian because she LIVES here.” And I secretly smile with delight.

Rome is like that. It absorbs you little by little until you completely surrender to it. Perhaps I am leaving just in time.

Today I spent a lot of time in church or churches, rather. First, Mass at my church across the street: Sts. Ambrosia and Carlo. I understood about every 10^th word in Italian, but it’s easy to follow along as Mass is basically the same in any country. Then, I wanted to see St. Susanna which I missed on my last attempt, so I trudged up Via Barberini and got double my money’s worth. First I found Santa Maria della Vittoria where Mass was just beginning. Padre was visibly upset when tourists came in to look but not attend Mass. So for safety sake I felt I better stay a while. Then on to Santa Susanna where memories of Bill serving as acolyte to the Archbishop came flooding back. This is also where my friendship with Sam and Lynette began. With Lynette and Bill both serving on the altar, Sam and I were destined to become pew buddies.

Then back down the hill to lunch at a restaurant recommended to me by my waiter Giorgio at Pierluigi. There I met the only other diner – an artist who has a studio not far away and paints only in black, white and grey. One of his pieces adorned the wall of the restaurant. Too bad the food emulated the painting. But not to worry, I’ll drown my food sorrows in gelato a little later.

The rest of the day was spent soaking in Rome. A walk in the park, a trip to Castel Sant Angelo and then back to my “old” neighborhood of Piazza Farnese. This is the neighborhood I will miss most. Withdrawal will come swift and hard tomorrow.

Tonight I will have one more plate of cacio e pepe (a Roman specialty - pasta with pecorino cheese and pepper) and start packing. By this time tomorrow I will be home. It’s amazing to me that I can travel half a world away and still be home in time for cena (supper).

Arrivederchi, Roma, until the next time!

My last apartment lies behind the second door on the busy shopping street of Via del Corso.

Is there any wonder why they call it the Orange Apartment?

Santa Susanna, the American church in Rome.

The view from Castel Sant Angelo across the Tiber.

Rome as performance art

May 10, 2009

I’ve just moved to my third and final apartment. It’s the biggest yet and the most orange (it's called the orange apartment for that reason.) While it’s very quiet inside, outside the city is a carnival. Today’s entertainment included a 14-year old artist creating “original” art with spraypaint. By using stencils, handwork and a blowtorch, he rendered some pretty interesting 3D paintings (which could be yours for only 10 Euros.) Down the block, next to a church, a group of break-dancers mesmerized the crowd. And endless street musicians added to the rich cacophony of city life. This is Rome: life as full as you can imagine, energizing and exhausting at the same time.

Today I walked my new neighborhood on Via del Corso although I’ve been here many times before. I made the climb up to the Borghese Gardens and back down to the Pantheon. At dinner I sat next to a couple on their honeymoon from Ohio. It was fun to trade stories and observations. So I’ll leave you with just a few excerpts from my daily life:

It’s been getting warm in Rome and I stopped near a bus stop to take off my jacket. A man came out of a store and asked me something, but I didn’t understand him so I said “Eo non so” (I don’t know.) He laughed. Only later did I figure out that he had asked me if I was waiting for the bus. My reply of “I don’t know” must have seemed funny – since you really should know whether you are waiting for the bus…or not.

As you know, I am constantly getting lost and today I was trying to find a street named Campo di Marzo. I stopped for a coffee and asked the bartender for directions. He looked at me funny and said, you mean PIAZZA Campo di Marzo? It’s around the corner.” As I left the bar I looked up and saw I was already on the street I wanted.

But my favorite moment was when an Italian man stopped me on the street to ask ME for directions: this means I am finally starting to look and behave as an Italian.

Tomorrow is my last day here and I have specifically planned to have no plans. We’ll see what Rome offers up.

Winding down

May 8, 2009

Now that my days are numbered in Rome, I can already feel the pangs of loss. How can I leave a city so filled with life, love and longing? It has become a metaphor for my own life.

For lunch today I decided to venture to Trastevere again. I was in search of Santa Maria church and the famous restaurant, Sabatini. As I approached the church, I noticed a wedding beginning. I followed the bride in (as did a bunch of other tourists) and sat in the back of the church. Weddings for me are always melancholy. There is happiness for the hope and love the couple feels in that moment and sadness for knowing the challenges and heartbreak they will eventually face. It was a beautiful ceremony (with an Archbishop, no less) and I felt blessed to take part in it.

Across the piazza awaited Sabatini’s. I was one of the first to arrive and was welcomed immediately. I decided to try the special appetizer: a Jewish artichoke, bruschetta and deep-fried pumpkin blossom. It was the best first course ever. And I had caught the eye of Francesco Sabatini who spoke the sweetest Italian to me. He kissed my head and pinched my cheeks. (I think he liked me.) He told me that he first learned English at age 50 – so I think my Italian lessons may just work out. After two glasses of wine and a pasta course, I left with so many memories and a few photos to remember them by. Che bella!

Walking home I thought of how amazing this experience has been. I have met such loving people, eaten amazing food and lived the life of a leisurely Roman. I am truly blessed.

Later in the afternoon, I met with Fr. Mark Haydu of the Patrons of the Arts for the Vatican Museums. Took a cab out to the Legonnaries seminary via Aurelia Way - a very tranquil spot so close to the city. Had a good meeting, although he doesn’t have a job. He gave me a few ideas to follow up on, though. Cabbed back to San Pietro and talked with the driver a bit. Am getting more confident in my language skills, although they are still rudimentary.

Tonight I went out to the Piazza determined to have a glass of wine by myself and read a good book while soaking in the last of the day's sun. I was promptly joined by Davide, a Jewish Italian who wanted to practice his English with me. And so I played along, practicing my Italian on him. He is a computer nerd by day, artist by night. He's flying off to Venice tomorrow, otherwise he'd show me his city. But he gave me his number, just in case. It was harmless and fun. And again showed me that Italian men are much more open, fun and uncomplicated than American men.

Am eating amazing take-away pizza and drinking vino rosso as I write this. Do I really have to go back home? I feel like I've found this new inner strength I never knew I had. Or, it's just the wine. Oh well, it feels good. Now I need to pack for yet another move tomorrow.

The wedding at Santa Maria in Trastevere.

My new favorite lunch spot - Sabatini's

With my new friend Francesco Sabatini.

Due per Due (2 for 2)

Thursday, May 7

Great meals that is. Since I’m done with sightseeing (not the reason I came anyway) my days now revolve around meals. Which means I have to answer only one question: where will I eat today?

For lunch I decide to try another of my Italian professor’s pics (he hasn’t steered me wrong so far) and head back to the Pantheon to try La Pigna. But first, to resolve where I am staying this weekend. While I am drooling over the 5-star St. George Hotel close to my apartment, at $400/night this probably isn’t going to happen. So I am checking out a few properties before lunch. I happen on Hotel Nationale next to the Italian parliament – a nice building and quiet area. They are happy to show me a room offered at 220 Euro discounted for me to 160. Holy flashback – this room hasn’t been renovated since I was born. Not a deal at any price.

On to a set of three small apartments right off of Via Del Corso, the main shopping street near The Spanish Steps. I am hoping to rent the smallest unit – the Green apartment offered at 140 Euros. A sparse hallway leads to a directory for Relais Rome. A man greets me behind the wrought iron fence. I inquire about the Green Apartment, but am told it was just rented. I ask to see it anyway. We wind up a spiral staircase that I could never drag my suitcase up. Nice, but rented. Oh well.

“I do have ONE other unit available,” admits Andrea, the innkeeper. “Would you like to see it?” Sure, but I know it rents for much more. The Orange apartment is huge and opulent. And has wifi. I am intrigued. “How much would this rent for?” “For you, my special friend, I can offer it for 120 Euros.” Sold.

Off to La Pigna for lunch. The waiter is friendly and speaks Italian to me. So I ask him what he recommends "Cosa mi consiglia?" I let him choose, so I’m not really sure what I’m getting. I am not at all disappointed with veal stuffed with pancetta and artichokes, served with buttery roasted potatoes. Yum. I am ready for my check when the waiter reappears with a wine glass and bottle of Proseco. He mentions something about a digestif and looks at the men at the next table. They toast me. Two handsome Italian men just bought me a drink! A perfect end to a great meal.

For dinner, I am willing to settle for take-away pizza so I walk through my neighborhood in search of a slice. I pass Pierluigi where I had a good lunch and see my waiter, Giorgio. “Can I get take-away pasta?” I ask. “But don’t you want to sit?” Sure. It’s a beautiful night and I am in Rome. I choose pasta in a saffron cream sauce with squash blossoms. Another great meal and charming Italian man taking care of me. Ah, I could get used to this.

10 things I've learned about Italy

Wednesday, May 6, 2009

Not too much to report today as my cold decided to show me who’s boss. Even missed my coffee date with the girls next door. Just before noon I headed to Campo de Fiore – just a few blocks away for more fragole (strawberries). The market has something for everyone from fruits and vegetables to spices, pasta and cheap trinkets. Sort of like Pike Place Market with an accent. Went to lunch in the neighborhood – had a good caprese salad with mozzarella di buffalo (yes, it’s really made with buffalo milk) and pasta with artichokes and pancetta (okay.) Did I mention they eat the WHOLE artichoke here – not just the heart. So you definitely get your fill of roughage.

Then off to see Vittorio Emanuele up close. This is probably the largest monument in the city which is dedicated to the first president of Italy who unified the country. At the top is a great view of the Coliseum, Forum and even St. Peter’s. There’s also a museum chronicling the unification of Italy – I wish I knew more about Italian history, as all the signage is in Italian and mostly beyond my comprehension level. And it wouldn’t be Italy without a bar up here, too.

That was about it for my energy level today. So I’ll leave you with:

10 things I’ve learned about Italy

1. You can make plans, but they will ALWAYS change. ALWAYS. (And you know how hard it is for me NOT to plan.)

2. Men here wear red pants. Don’t know why. Even saw a man dressed head-to-toe in red. Huh?

3. Avoid banks at all costs. You won’t get any money from them, so why bother with the hassle?

4. The Camorra (Mafia) in Naples drive Audis. I had this confirmed by a tour guide whose reply when asked was “I really couldn’t say, but I can tell you I no longer drive an Audi.”

5. Everything takes 3x longer than you think it should. But what’s the rush?

6. Crossing the street takes guts. You just have to go and don’t even think about looking at the cars. Amazingly, they stop. I’m actually getting pretty good at this.

7. Internet here is a luxury. You can spend a lot of time looking for it.

8. Italian women have the best shoes, especially boots – stivali. Low heels, high heels. They are all gorgeous. And they wear them well into the Spring.

9. Don’t eat the tomatoes or strawberries in Italy. It will ruin you for eating them anywhere else - ever.

10. Not sure why Italians drive so fast. They are not in a hurry to do anything else fast.

View of the Coliseum from Vittorio Emanuele.

The Forum from Vittorio Emanuele.

Today's mission: Find carciofi

Tuesday, May, 5

It’s not really that hard to do in Rome, but I’m in search of the very special carciofi at the very elusive Il Piperno Ristorante. And by elusive, I mean hidden on a small street in the Jewish Ghetto which I found only after asking three people (who all gave me different directions.) But since tenacity is my middle name, I was victorious just in time for lunch.

Carciofi Guida is a specialty here – basically deep fried artichokes - hold the batter. So as soon as I sat down I told the waiter that is why I had come. Within a few moments my wish arrived – they were tender and tasty, but also probably the most expensive artichokes I have ever had at 16 Euros. Since that went so well, I ventured to try the ravioli di ricotta e spinaci. (17 Euros) Amazing. And who could resist dessert when the menu boasted a specialty of le palle di nonno fritte (yes, you translated it correctly if you guessed fried grandpa balls. 7.5 Euros) Deep-fried ricotta with chocolate. Not too sweet, perfect with the rest of my Barrolo wine. So this was probably my most expensive lunch coming in at 54 Euros but also the most memorable so far. I had the amazing realization that great food is what makes me truly happy. So Rome is a good place to be.

Some people photograph monuments; I photograph my food.

Carciofi Guida - delish!

My main course - spinach and ricotta ravioli.

Le palle di nonno fritte.

Lunch with 200 young, single men

May 4, 2009

I had the BEST day today. It started out a bit rough as I still had a lingering sore throat. But I was determined to take the Scavi tour at St. Peter’s and have my interview with the Monsignor. So off I went a bit before 9 am over the bridge to the Vatican. Arrivo in anticipo (I arrived early) with plenty of time to find the Swiss guards and the entry to the Excavations Office. At 9:30 am I met the tour and we went 70 meters under St. Peter’s to the first century graveyard the duomo was built on. I had no idea this existed, even after four visits to the Vatican. It was an amazing tour of both Christian and pagan graves for some of Rome’s wealthiest citizens. The highlight was finding St. Peter’s original grave and the memorial where scientists found his relics (they were not in his grave, but moved by Constantine to a memorial in the third century). They are still kept in this memorial three floors below the High Altar. I highly recommend this tour for anyone coming to Rome, but you must request tickets months in advance as they only let in 100 people a day.

I had time for a coffee and then off to the North American College for my interview with the Monsignor Mueggenborg. It was a great meeting - the Monsignor gave me a full tour of the seminary including the wonderful rooftop deck overlooking the dome of St. Peter’s. Unfortunately, they do not have any positions available in Rome, but there is a job in Washington, D.C. The Monsignor is forwarding my resume to the Executive Director there, but he was quick to tell me it would not pay very well.

Then, I was invited to pranzo (lunch) with the entire seminary. Yes, I had lunch with 200 young, single men. Okay, they are TECHNICALLY married to the church, but not yet…..

It was great to have the chance to talk with these young men – they will all make excellent priests one day. It made my day – I hope it made theirs.

Back home to my flat to figure out my internet difficulties. But first I rang the bell of my next door neighbor – Catholic News Service, which rents the apartment next to me. I introduced myself and met three reporters working out of this office. We went downstairs for coffee and talked about finding me a job in Rome. Such a great group of people – think I may have made my first friends!

So a very good day, indeed. Now to take care of my cold with a good bottle of red wine and pizza. This is living!

My new apartment

May 2, 2009

I'm sitting here in apartment #2 eating green olives (they're Castelvestrano, but here they just call them verde), drinking white wine while watching Edward Scissorhands (in Italian) with my laundry drying outside on the deck. Home in Rome on a Saturday night. But I'm glad to be staying in because I'm a bit under the weather. I think I've been overdoing it. I have to remind myself that I came to Rome to live like a Roman and I don't think they work this hard.

I was sad to leave my first apartment today. I really liked it other than the noise and no internet. My new apartment is in a more central location - but guess what? It's still noisy. And I'm supposed to have wireless, but guess what? It doesn't work. So I have to wait until Monday for my landlord's porter to come who is supposedly a computer genius, but he works as a porter. He works from 7:30 am to 7 pm with a two hour break mid-day. He is the hardest working Italian I know.

So the new apartment is fine, but has less character than the first. It's on the fourth floor (which really means the fifth) and has an itsy-bitsy elevator that I won't take for fear of getting stuck (I've always had a fear of elevators.) At this rate, I'm going to come home from Italy even skinnier. The neighborhood is great - lots of restaurants close by, which the other apartment didn't have. So I think I'll like it. But it will take a bit of getting used to.

Today I walked around my new neighborhood and stumbled on a nice shoe store selling secondhand shoes – the way I figured this out was they were displayed by size rather than style and the soles were scuffed. But otherwise they are in really good shape. Unfortunately, size 38 - my size - had the smallest selection and there wasn’t anything I was interested in. But I will try to go back, if I can remember where it is…

Finally settled on a place for lunch – Pierluigi. As soon as I sat down outside, a big thunderstorm whipped up from out of nowhere. It had been sunny and 75, but within a few minutes it was raining gatti e cani. But I was happy eating pasta with spada e melanzana (swordfish and eggplant.) They deep-fried the eggplant like French fries and added cherry tomatoes and basil. Delicioso! I even managed to impress the waiter with my Italian when I said “sono sazia” as he came to take my plate. I savored this as much as the meal.

The grocery is just across the street as well as a coffee bar and pizza place. So at least things are much more easily accessible here. But I think I like my first place better. Now I need to nurse a sore throat – my interview with the Monsignor is on Monday and I don’t want to have to reschedule due to a cold.

Buona notte Roma!

La prima de maggio

May 1, 2009

I think I have officially hit the wall. My walk today started in the Borghese Gardens and continued down through Via Veneto which is a very upscale area with only the best hotels and restaurants (yes, I could get used to it here.) Then I got lost, as usual, looking for St. Susanna church and wound up on the top of the Spanish Steps. It was a mob scene, given that today is a holiday and there is no shopping to distract the tourists.

I wanted to find a quiet place for lunch so I headed toward the Pantheon and Piazza Navona, an area I also always get lost in. I saw signs to Piazza Farnese, which is close to my next apartment and also where I had originally wanted to stay with the nuns of St. Bridgit, but they were full (did someone call to warn them about me?) I found a small café where I was the first for lunch. I ordered Roman artichokes and mushroom linguine. The artichokes were boiled and smothered in olive oil – okay - but I much prefer them grilled a la Rockin’Fish. The pasta was also so-so. But the host was charming and a guitar player came over and played Volare, so that really made the meal.

Then I rang the doorbell at St. Bridgit’s. The nun invited me in but told me I would need to come back for the tour at 5:30 pm to see where St. Bridgit lived. I’ll try that next week. Then only a few blocks down Bancchi del la Vecchio I found my next apartment. I really like this area and I think it will be a great home base to explore Southern Rome. From here, it’s just a short trip over the bridge and down the street to the Vatican, so I couldn’t resist. Went inside St. Peter’s – always a very sacred and emotional experience.

Then back up river to home. On the way stopped by Hotel Locarno where Gandina said I could find wifi and confirmed that this was available for the price of a drink. It is a beautiful small hotel right down a side street next to Piazza del Popolo. That is my plan for tonight.

So probably another 4-5 miles logged today. I think I need a day off. Tomorrow is Saturday and move day. Perhaps Sunday will fit the bill.

The Borgese Gardens

My first Roman artichoke

St. Peter's

La dolce vita

April 30, 2009

I HATE Italian banks. Since tomorrow is yet another Italian holiday (when do these people actually work?) I realized I needed to cash my travelers cheques today for my next apartment. Went back to Banca di Napoli since I had luck there getting cash from the machine. Waited in line to be met by yet another surly teller who won’t speak English even after my cries of “non capisco.” I guess good customer service just hasn’t made it this far around the globe yet. I think he said I had to go to Piazza de Spagna to the American Express office. We’ll see how good my comprehension is. All I could think of was “Boy, Mom would really hate the Italians!”

Went back to the fresh market for more fragole (strawberries). They are the most perfect red, like someone painted them in neon watercolor. They taste as sweet as cherry lifesavers. Amazing.

After finding the American Express office and exchanging money for a terribly low rate (never do this again) I headed off to lunch at a place Gandina recommended for its tagliolini cacio e pepe - pasta with cheese sauce and pepper also known as pure heaven. This is my new favorite to carbonara. I learned a new term that I am using daily - sono sazia – I am full. That sums up Rome for me. Full of life, pasta, vino, amore. Che una citta favolosa!

Since I was dining alone for lunch, the hostess put me at a table in the back for 8! Soon, another couple joined me so I didn’t feel quite so conspicuous. They spoke Italian, but I think they were French. I loved that she had a blue streak in her hair and he ate more of her salad than his. I ate all my pasta downed with a 1/4 litro of red wine. Life is good.

I also stopped to try on about 16 pairs of shoes today, but walked away empty handed. The clerk was very nice, trying to find shoes I’d like and that fit. I tried speaking my best Italian, which he mostly understood. He even asked me what dopo domani means in English – imagine an Italian asking me to translate Italian! It was a fun experience, but still no scarpe.

But frustrations also abound here. Walked for an hour to find a museum cafe where Gandina told me they had free wifi. Once finding it, I order a water and glass of wine to settle into some email. But the connection didn't work. When I asked for help, they said it was my problem. Again, customer service, anyone? So I rushed back to the internet cafe to send off emails. I'm learning that everything takes 3x as long in Italia. But I guess that's living la dolce vita!

Sight seeing

April 29, 2009

Today I played tourist. The day looked promising without any rain, but a few clouds. Decided to risk it without an umbrella. I started at Piazza del Popolo and made my way south to the Spanish Steps, Trevi Fountain and Pantheon. Getting to the Pantheon was not as easy as I had thought – took a detour and ended up in front of Abruzzi Ristorante, where the AB first took me and then I took Gary’s family. As Gandina told me, Rome is a big city. I learned that today by walking at least 4 miles. In my search for Piazza Navona (which is quite well hidden I must say) I found my hotel for the last two nights – Hotel Genio. Not too impressive. I may be changing that.

Had lunch near Piazza Navona. Ordered pasta with tomatoes, capers and olives. Too salty. Didn’t finish it and didn’t want to bring it home. So I need to figure our something for dinner. Got lost several times, but most unsettling was being lost when I really wanted to get home. Finally found the Tiber and walked over the bridge to Castel San Angelo. Walked along the river until I got to my apartment. As long as I can find the river, I can find home.

It turned out to be a beautiful day. Too hot for my coat AND sweater. Finally found a scarf I like for only 10 Euros near the Pantheon. May have to go back to get some more as these are the only ones I’ve found of good quality. Now I really need to find some shoes. It’s really not sandals weather yet and I only brought my Merrells.

Stopped by Alimentari again for water and wine. Was looking forward to seeing my same shopkeeper, but he wasn’t there. Maybe tomorrow. Got some takeaway pizza. They cut to order the amount you want. It was pretty good.

What am I going to do tomorrow? I still haven’t found a coffee bar I like and haven’t had my first latte in Rome. Perhaps that’s tomorrow’s goal. Off to the Internet café to catch up on my life.

The Spanish Steps

Trevi Fountain

The Pantheon

La prima giorno

April 28, 2009

My first full day in Roma. After taking a nice shower (I so appreciate this) I got dressed to go out, but it was pouring rain. Rain that would make Seattle jealous. So I waited a bit and realized I could be waiting all day. During a break in the action I ventured out. First stop: the fresh food market Gandina had told me about. There I bought cherry pomodori, fragoli and banane. Success!

Then onto the bank to get the rest of Gandina’s rent money. Found the ATM for Banca di Napoli, inserted card, PIN number and amount. Denied. Went to the bank down the street to Banca di Roma, thinking maybe Napoli just didn’t like me. Went inside. They have these weird doors where you step inside this round entry cubicle. The door then closes behind you and it takes a few moments for the door to open on the other side. Slight panic attack. So far, I’ve decided Italy is not the country for claustrophobics. Saw a machine that looked like an ATM, but I wasn’t sure, so I waited in line. Didn’t realize that people sit while waiting in line. Now I know why. It takes at least 5 minutes for each transaction and there is only one very unhappy teller for the whole bank. At my turn, I explained that the machine wasn’t taking my card. He didn’t speak English and didn’t care. I asked to speak to the manager. He waved me over to a woman. She didn’t look up. When she finally did, she continued to enter numbers into the computer telling to me to wait. She wasn’t any help. Just suggested I try another bank ATM with the Cirrus logo.

Walked past Banca di Napoli again. Saw the Cirrus logo. Tried again. “Not valid for International withdrawls.” Decided to call the bank.

Later, after a $12 phone call, I found out they placed a hold on my card because I didn’t let them know I’d be traveling. Who knew you had to get permission from your bank to travel? Problem solved.

Needed to find lunch and an Internet café. Venturing through Piazza del Popolo, I found a side street with an Osteria - Gusto. Went inside. Perfect. Half understood the menu. Ordered the carbonara, my mainstay on this trip. Had a bicchiere of vino rosso. Devine. Got the name of the wine (Cannonau di Sardegna Marghia ’06) to find a bottle later. Saved half of the carbonara for dinner tonight. I felt much better.

Then off to the Internet cafe. It was good to reconnect with the world. Am feeling a bit apprehensive about spending two weeks on my own speaking only broken Italian. Without consistent Internet, it's going to be isolating. Right now, I'm glad I'm not here for 3 months......

On to Roma!

April 27, 2009

Took the Eurostar bullet train to Roma today from Napoli in less than 1.25 hours. Upon arriving, I was easily able to find a taxi, although it took 3 guys to figure out where I was going. My taxi driver was very nice and even let me try out my Italian on him. We found my apartment (a rather non-descript building) and I rang my landlord Gandina, who is about 45 and speaks very good English. My apartment is a separate building from the main building with a small terrace and sun porch. I feel quite safe here as there is a large, heavy exterior gate, then the sun porch door and my front door to go through - along with three keys that aren't marked so you just have to try each of them on every door.

Tonight we are having quite a wind/rain storm. I was able to get out quickly to get some milk, cereal, salami, cheese and wine before the storm hit. I'm afraid my sense of direction is not too good yet, so I didn't want to wander too far away. I found a deli (Alimentare) and the storekeeper was very nice and spoke English so I could buy my American provisions. Thanks to the Archbishop, I remembered to ask for some Frascati wine which I am enjoying as I write this.

Unfortunately, there is no internet in my unit (I was hoping to pirate off another apartment). This is making me feel a bit isolated, as I was used to having access at Jeff and Joanna's. So to send this I will have to find an Internet cafe where I can plug in my Mac, so you may be reading this a few days later.

Tonight I am watching Italian TV and not understanding much of it. I am hoping my comprehension will improve in two weeks. The Rome adventure has officially begun!

The outside gate to my apartment.

Every time I come home, the outdoor terrace greets me.

My living room with the beautiful marble floors.

Back in Naples

April 25, 2009

Back in Naples and I spend time with the family and TWO dogs. Trips to Auchon's are one of my favorite outings. The groceries are amazing - from the olives, meats and fish to the fresh vegetables and luscious pastries, it's a bountiful feast for the eyes. But life with the McAtees is coming to an end. Soon I will be off to Rome to my apartment. First, a bit more time with the girls as we head to the Archeological Museum and one last dinner.

The Cinque Terra

April 20, 2009

On to the beautiful Cinque Terra - first stop Riomaggiore where we had lunch. Then walked to the second town Manarola (15 minutes) and took the train to Monterossa al Mare where I had my first gelato. Then back on the train to Riomaggiore. It was an express train – at our stop Joanna didn’t want to get off thinking that we were in a tunnel and I had to pull her off the train! Ate dinner all three nights in the beach town of Tirrenia, near Camp Darby where we stayed in Livorna. Had my first carbonnara – bellissima! And a fabulous salad nicoise.

Stopping to take in the scenery in Riomaggiore.

The colors of the buildings are magical.

The harbor of Riomaggiore - one of my favorite photos.

Enjoying my first gelato on the coast. It doesn't get any better than this!

The adventure begins...

April 19, 2009

The adventure begins in Naples where I am staying with friends Jeff and Joanna. After two days to recupe from the long flight, Joanna and I make the 7 hour drive to Tuscany. First stop - Lucca – a medieval walled city. And we're in luck - today is flea market day where we met an American couple and helped them negotiate their purchase in Italian. Lunch at Gino’s bar was delicioso – ate pasta and had my first Italian latte. Then, on to Barga, a charming medieval hilltown. At the top, the duomo is dedicated to St. Christopher (is he still a saint?) Walked the nearly empty streets (it was Sunday.) Beautiful views of the mountains and valleys!

The flea market in Lucca.

Barga, 22 miles north of Lucca, is more than 1,000 years old.

Stopping to enjoy the wisteria in beautiful Barga.