Due per Due (2 for 2)

Thursday, May 7

Great meals that is. Since I’m done with sightseeing (not the reason I came anyway) my days now revolve around meals. Which means I have to answer only one question: where will I eat today?

For lunch I decide to try another of my Italian professor’s pics (he hasn’t steered me wrong so far) and head back to the Pantheon to try La Pigna. But first, to resolve where I am staying this weekend. While I am drooling over the 5-star St. George Hotel close to my apartment, at $400/night this probably isn’t going to happen. So I am checking out a few properties before lunch. I happen on Hotel Nationale next to the Italian parliament – a nice building and quiet area. They are happy to show me a room offered at 220 Euro discounted for me to 160. Holy flashback – this room hasn’t been renovated since I was born. Not a deal at any price.

On to a set of three small apartments right off of Via Del Corso, the main shopping street near The Spanish Steps. I am hoping to rent the smallest unit – the Green apartment offered at 140 Euros. A sparse hallway leads to a directory for Relais Rome. A man greets me behind the wrought iron fence. I inquire about the Green Apartment, but am told it was just rented. I ask to see it anyway. We wind up a spiral staircase that I could never drag my suitcase up. Nice, but rented. Oh well.

“I do have ONE other unit available,” admits Andrea, the innkeeper. “Would you like to see it?” Sure, but I know it rents for much more. The Orange apartment is huge and opulent. And has wifi. I am intrigued. “How much would this rent for?” “For you, my special friend, I can offer it for 120 Euros.” Sold.

Off to La Pigna for lunch. The waiter is friendly and speaks Italian to me. So I ask him what he recommends "Cosa mi consiglia?" I let him choose, so I’m not really sure what I’m getting. I am not at all disappointed with veal stuffed with pancetta and artichokes, served with buttery roasted potatoes. Yum. I am ready for my check when the waiter reappears with a wine glass and bottle of Proseco. He mentions something about a digestif and looks at the men at the next table. They toast me. Two handsome Italian men just bought me a drink! A perfect end to a great meal.

For dinner, I am willing to settle for take-away pizza so I walk through my neighborhood in search of a slice. I pass Pierluigi where I had a good lunch and see my waiter, Giorgio. “Can I get take-away pasta?” I ask. “But don’t you want to sit?” Sure. It’s a beautiful night and I am in Rome. I choose pasta in a saffron cream sauce with squash blossoms. Another great meal and charming Italian man taking care of me. Ah, I could get used to this.