May 11, 2009
I feel most Roman every time I come back to my apartment. As I open the heavy wooden door on my busy shopping street, people always peer past me into the long corridor. I know what they are thinking: “She must be Italian because she LIVES here.” And I secretly smile with delight.
Rome is like that. It absorbs you little by little until you completely surrender to it. Perhaps I am leaving just in time.
Today I spent a lot of time in church or churches, rather. First, Mass at my church across the street: Sts. Ambrosia and Carlo. I understood about every 10th word in Italian, but it’s easy to follow along as Mass is basically the same in any country. Then, I wanted to see St. Susanna which I missed on my last attempt, so I trudged up Via Barberini and got double my money’s worth. First I found Santa Maria della Vittoria where Mass was just beginning. Padre was visibly upset when tourists came in to look but not attend Mass. So for safety sake I felt I better stay a while. Then on to Santa Susanna where memories of Bill serving as acolyte to the Archbishop came flooding back. This is also where my friendship with Sam and Lynette began. With Lynette and Bill both serving on the altar, Sam and I were destined to become pew buddies.
Then back down the hill to lunch at a restaurant recommended to me by my waiter Giorgio at Pierluigi. There I met the only other diner – an artist who has a studio not far away and paints only in black, white and grey. One of his pieces adorned the wall of the restaurant. Too bad the food emulated the painting. But not to worry, I’ll drown my food sorrows in gelato a little later.
The rest of the day was spent soaking in Rome. A walk in the park, a trip to Castel Sant Angelo and then back to my “old” neighborhood of Piazza Farnese. This is the neighborhood I will miss most. Withdrawal will come swift and hard tomorrow.
Tonight I will have one more plate of cacio e pepe (a Roman specialty - pasta with pecorino cheese and pepper) and start packing. By this time tomorrow I will be home. It’s amazing to me that I can travel half a world away and still be home in time for cena (supper).
Arrivederchi, Roma, until the next time!
My last apartment lies behind the second door on the busy shopping street of Via del Corso.
Is there any wonder why they call it the Orange Apartment?
Santa Susanna, the American church in Rome.
The view from Castel Sant Angelo across the Tiber.
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